Pressure Tank Troubleshooting
This “TROUBLESHOOTING” information is intended to guide in the general determination of pump problems and their solutions. Each manufacturer normally provides a description of warranty conditions. Some pump warranties are immediately voided if the unit is disassembled. Be sure to thoroughly read the owner's manual and warranty.
PUMP RAPID-CYCLES- Incorrect air charge in tank (Set air-charge 2 PSI below the pump cut-in pressure for steel bladder tanks or 4 PSI for fiberglass bladder tanks).
- Bladder or diaphragm has ruptured. (Check by depressing the air valve stem. If water emerges, diaphragm is ruptured (Replace tank).)
- Incorrect pressure switch differential (Adjust pressure switch differential to 20 PSI. Tank too small. Check tank sizing, (Replace tank).
- Pressure tanks are usually pre-charged at 30 PSI.
- Drain water from tank to check tank air charge.
- Pressure switches are usually set for 30-50 PSI.
- Faulty check or foot valve. (Close valve between tank and house. If gauge pressure drops, the check or foot valve is faulty. Replace defective valve)
- Slow leak in house plumbing. (Close valve between tank and house. If gauge pressure does not drop, there is a slow leak in the house plumbing. Repair leak)
- Defective air valve core. (Brush soapy water around air stem. If leak is found, the valve core is defective. Replace valve core)
- Defective tank weld. (Brush soapy water around tank welds. If leak is found, the tank is defective. Replace tank)
- Ruptured tank diaphragm Replace tank
- Incorrect air charge in tank Set air-charge 2 PSI below the pump cut-in pressure for steel bladder tanks or 4 PSI for fiberglass bladder tanks
- Defective pump Repair pump
- Defective well piping Repair or replace piping